Professional haircare products’ accessibility is growing alongside product haircolor and hairstyling developments. What once was only available at your local salon or beauty supply shop can now be obtained online—even on Amazon!And the variety of haircare products now offer wellness benefits such as scalp health or heat protection.
Per Kline’s survey conducted among hundreds of hairdressing salons in the US, nearly 20% of all purchases are now made through e-commerce platforms.
“Reliability and trustworthiness play pivotal roles in influencing purchases across all channels,” observed Jiri Michal, an industry manager in Kline’s Beauty and Wellbeing sector. “Amazon Professional Beauty stands out with its swift delivery and effective inventory management.”
More than 50% of salons consistently sell haircare products, with only a minority reporting that they do not sell any products. Product sampling emerges as a crucial motivator for product retail, particularly among small- and mid-size salons, added Michal.
“Most US salons indicated that they maintain social media profiles, with a minority reporting no presence on social media platforms,” Michal told Happi. “Facebook proves to be the most engaging platform for surveyed salons, closely followed by Instagram, while TikTok is gaining significant attention.”
Nearly 70% of salons expect an increase in revenue during the next year or two, mainly by those who work in full-service salons.
There has been a notable slowdown in the US market, based on recently-released preliminary data on professional salon haircare product sales. Growth has decelerated from approximately 6% in 2022 to around 4% in 2023, according to Kline. However, conditioners, shampoos and styling products remain robust drivers of sales in the US, each growing more than 5% in 2023.
“The retailing of professional products continues to be a significant factor in driving sales in the US. Sales through e-commerce platforms have surged, constituting over 20% of total sales and displaying high double-digit growth rates, particularly evident in 2023,” said Michal. “This trend can be attributed to the ability of these platforms to effectively market not only salon-exclusive products but also those targeted at consumers for home purchase.”
Michal continued, “In tandem with the growth of professional retailing, we are witnessing an increasing number of brands entering the retail space.”
Examples last year include Madison Reed’s debut in Walmart, the arrival of L’Oréal Professional and Schwarzkopf Professional on Amazon and Verb’s partnership with Ulta Beauty at Target. This year, BosleyMD entered Walmart.
“A noteworthy shift is observed among consumers, particularly among Gen Z and Gen A demographics, who increasingly favor specialty retail stores such as Ulta and Sephora. This behavior is driven by a desire to explore new products, access the latest innovations and stay informed about market trends,” Michal said.
Kline’s latest research found a rise in green packaging for haircare. The salon industry is increasingly embracing sustainability, with over half of salons surveyed proudly incorporating eco-friendly products and practices.
Circana data found that prestige hair product sales overall continued to grow double-digits in Q1. Hair wellness continues to rise in importance, which is evident by the performance of hair thinning and loss products, hair oils and serums, scalp care and heat protectants. Sales for each grew between 13% and 25% during the quarter.
From a brand type perspective, salon brands remained the top sales contributor, but celebrity brands grew the fastest, up 64%, found Circana.
Scalp Care, Curl Treatments & More
For Summer 2024, professional haircare rollouts and line expansions span from specialized curl care to scalp health.
According to haircare expert Philip Pelusi, healthy looking hair never goes out of style but now “it’s a foundational mind shift” with both clients and stylists on the same page.
“We’re seeing a positive shift with consumers not only willing but wanting to put the work in up front before even getting to their styling product application,” he told Happi.
In fact, scalp care has now become a welcomed part of a new pre-styling approach to healthy scalp and hair as opposed to trying to improve the appearance of hair with styling and finishing products, said Pelusi.
“The consumer is on board with this concept similar to the way they’ve maintained their skin and are elevating their scalp and hair care to that same level of importance. Wherein decades past there was a lot more coaxing involved for this pre-treat ideology,” said Pelusi.
“Today it seems creating an environment for and maintaining healthy hair is getting a new level of respect including the inclination toward no-heat styling or at least making pre-heat protection a priority for this season’s natural looking and easy-care hair trends.”
Knowing that healthy hair starts at the root, Biolage recently debuted the Scalp Sync collection. Made up of six products, these prescriptive solutions allow shoppers to build regimens based on beauty needs and scalp health concerns (dandruff, dry/sensitive scalp and oily scalp). Formulated with glycolic acid to exfoliate and increase cell turnover, and fermented tea to reduce irritation and itchiness, the haircare formulas help balance scalp moisture and sebum to optimal levels, said the company. The hero product is the Purifying Scalp Concentrate, a rinse off pre-shampoo scalp treatment clarifies the scalp from buildup, excess oil, impurities and dead skin after one use, said the brand.
Model and entrepreneur Sofia Richie Grainge is a brand ambassador for Nexxus’ new styling line. The styling and finishing collection features proprietary Styleprotect technology that prioritizes hair health by safeguarding strands from style-related damage, per marketers. Inspired by the sought-after hair trends taking over TikTok, the 11-piece line brings “expert-level” styling into the home. The new collection also includes a product inspired by Richie Grainge’s signature slick back bun, the Nexxus Slick Stick Strong Hold Hair Wax.
“Creating a hairstyle that’s equal parts simple and stylish has always been important to me,” said Grainge in a statement. “As a Nexxus ambassador, I’m excited to share all the beauty hacks I’ve picked up over the years. Even though I never could have predicted how my hair tutorials would take off on TikTok, I love sharing how easy hairstyling can be with the right tools. The new Styling Line has quickly become a favorite of my longtime stylist, Kathleen Riley, for its hair health benefits. These products really do make any look feel effortless.”
Aimed to protect delicate, medium and thick textures, there are five finishing and six styling products in the new Nexxus styling line. The new color safe styling range provides a 72-hour humidity shield, 48-hour frizz control and heat protection up to 450°F. The line consists of hair wax, creams, mousse, oil, sprays, hairsprays and dry shampoo.
“We couldn’t be more excited to be joining forces with Sofia for the debut of our Styling Line. Her influence in the beauty realm extends far beyond her stunning looks. Her engaging and approachable styling tips and tutorials have resonated with fans all over the world,” said Jessica Grigoriou, head of beauty marketing and hair care, Unilever NA. “Through this partnership, Nexxus and Sofia are showing how to get that ‘fresh out of the salon’ feeling, putting celebrities and consumers on a level playing field when it comes to quality, healthy hair care.”
For consumers whose go-to hair product is Oribe’s Dry Texturizing Spray, their tresses will lust after its new Gold Lust Dry Heat Protection Spray. The multitasking dry spray was created to provide added heat protection to dry hair, while adding softness and a frizz-free finish on all hair types, per the brand. What’s more, it can also double as a dry conditioner and on second-day hair to protect it from heat and restore softness before restyling.
Sprayed onto dry hair before using hot tools, Gold Lust Dry Heat Protection Spray protects from temperatures up to 450°F, while instantly conditioning and restoring damaged and weakened strands, leaving behind a touchable, healthy-looking frizz-free finish.
After being sold out for four long months, Fekkai Brilliant Gloss Glass Hair Oil Serumis finally back in stock at professional haircare locations, according to the brand. The Fekkai fan favorite is said to impart shine, frizz control and heat protection. The Brilliant Gloss Glass Hair Oil Serum can be used as a prep-step on white hair or as a finisher for dry styles.
This summer is about leaning into timeless and effortless low-maintenance cuts and vibrant colors, according to April Story, a Fekkai global master stylist.
“Clients are requesting bolder looks like more pixies, bangs and big chops from long to pixie and any variation in between,” said Story. “Our curly girls are going bigger and rounder. More people are stepping into who they are authentically and making a conscious effort to project that narrative through their personal image.”
Matrix brand ambassador George Papanikolas emphasizes curl care for Summer 2024 with the haircare brand’s latest debut, A Curl Can Dream.
“The Matrix A Curl Can Dream Wave Definition products transforms frizzy hair into luscious defined waves without a crunchy finish. The end result is a soft and nourished looking definition,”he told Happi.
Infused with weightless ingredients like manuka honey and rose water, consumers can achieve up to 48 hours of moisture and wave definition with no weigh-down with the line, said Papanikolas.
Matrix champions all hair types and textures and strives to offer the most pattern-inclusive range. A Curl Can Dream Wave Shampoo and Conditioner works for hair patterns ranging from 2A-2C, while the Scrunch N’ Go Defining Spray works for hair patterns 2A-3C. It is said to provide 90% more moisture, 10x more definition and no weigh-down, according to Matrix.
Also for Summer 2024, Le Labo Fragrances has expanded into professional haircare with an assortment of grooming creations that are an “ode to old-world, traditional Americana barbershops,” per marketers. A Multi-Purpose Balm, lightly scented with its signature grooming fragrance, can be applied from head to toe.
From Balayage to Gray Coverage
The professional haircare sector is also growing when it comes to color and hair dye products. In part, this is to match the elevated and sometimes complicated haircolor processes at salons.
“The current trend for highlights is leaving more depth and using richer and warm tones,” noted Ashlee Norman, colorist and Schwarzkopf Professional ambassador. “The celebrities are getting away from heavy traditional highlights and adding darker lowlights and glossing with a donut glazed expensive brunette finish. The challenge is not to over foil and leave more of the base color or add more of it into an overly processed blonde. Also, killing the brass while still maintaining a controlled warmth.”
Schwarzkopf Professional says it offers the “tools and 360-degree support” to enable hairdressers to reach their full potential. With the launch of Igora Zero Amm, permanent, semi- and demi-permanent, along with ammonia-free permanent coloration options are available under the Igora legacy brand.
Igora Zero Amm is a permanent coloration line, free from ammonia and fragrance, for natural-looking, true-to-tone color results. The vegan formula is housed in sustainable packaging.
Igora Zero Amm offers in-salon service experience, free from fragrance or ammonia, providing a competitive assortment of 46 shades. All formulas are specially designed to be used with Igoral Royal Oil Developer or Igora Vibrance Activator Gel/Lotion, and formulated with Phytolipid Technology, a blend of natural micronized oils and optimized pigment mixes for ideal color and care experience. Plus, it offers an improved color direction, coverage and neutralization, improved color performance and up to three levels of lift.
A balayage look crafted with the use of Blondme lightening products followed by toning with Igora Zero Amm, the lifted sections “effortlessly” blend with the rest of the hair, resulting in an on-trend finish with a face-framing impact, per the brand. Ideal for mature salon clients or anyone with white hair who prefers a more blended look, the salon service makes the most out of the Igora Zero Amm reliable performance to cover up to 100% of white hair, according to its maker.
Wella Company and its namesake brand Wella Professionals, introduced a more sustainable version of its Welloxon Perfect salon color developer. The new product line was designed with sustainability top-of-mind, the makers say, from formula, to packaging materials, transportation and in-salon use while delivering predictable color results, per the brand.
The innovation advances Wella Company’s strategy to use more sustainable ingredients, formulations and packaging across the company’s portfolio of professional and retail hair color and care, nails and beauty tech brands.
Welloxon Perfect’s upgraded formula is now vegan. It is also free of mineral oil, which is derived from non-renewable fossil fuels. This ingredient is certified to reduce carbon emissions, compared with the hydrogen peroxide used in the previous formula, said the company. Welloxon Perfect joins Wella Professional’s vegan color lines Koleston Perfect, Illumina Color and Blondorplex, the first two of which are color crèmes packaged in 100% recycled aluminum tubes.
“Wella Company is committed to improving sustainability and pursuing a comprehensive approach focusing on all aspects of our product offerings from A-Z: packaging and recycling, manufacturing and distribution, the use phase, and of course, ingredients,” said Peter Coles, chief scientific officer at Wella Company. “We continuously work across our supplier network for new solutions to drive positive change.”
Welloxon Perfect is available in markets across Europe, North America, Australia and New Zealand.
For spring, Matrix turned up the heat with 10 new tonal control acidic gel-cream toner shades. Calibrated to warm up reds, coppers and warm blondes, these new hues tap into 2024’s hottest shade trends, according to brand officials.
“I love the new warm gold Tonal Control shades specifically for creating bright balayage looks with that sun-kissed glow,” said Papanikolas. “And the new reds and coppers are vibrant and rich—perfect for the on-trend client!”
Tonal Control toners feature real-time visible oxidation technology, allowing shades to gradually deepen over time as they process with “predictable” results, according to the brand. Tonal Control spreads and applies easily through hair and stays in place with no drip, the brand said.
Better Ideas from Henkel
Henkel’s Better Natured’s line of Liqui-Creme Hair Color is available at Sally Beauty.
Select Better Natured haircare products, including its popular Color Care Shampoo & Conditioner and Hydrating Leave-In Milk, are also now at the professional beauty retailer. Better Natured uses the Global ISO Standard 16128 which defines naturally-derived as a plant- or mineral-derived material and water which is found in nature and has undergone limited processing.
“It’s always been the goal of Better Natured to make sure we are creating products that use naturally-derived ingredients without compromising performance. Being able to provide professional quality hair color and care that gives you salon results at home is so important to us,” said Jennifer Lauroesch, marketing director at Zotos Professional for Better Natured and Age Beautiful at Henkel.“That’s why we are thrilled to be launching at Sally Beauty. Sally Beauty has always been known as a hair color destination for the beauty professionals and having our products on their shelves will make it easier for the 90% of women surveyed who dye their hair at-home to access our products.”
Kenra Professional recently rolled out an improved range of Kenra Care shampoos and conditioners. The line reintroduced Moisture, Volume, Violet, Color Protecting and Clarify (shampoo only) for professional haircare made easy.
The new Care products feature a vegan peptide which is known to have protective properties. Alongside the peptide, each of the five new formulas contains science-backed ingredients such as vitaminE and D as well as PhytoSqualane.
“Hairstylists and consumers appreciate the ability to simplify their haircare decision-making. With this launch, Kenra has continued to reimagine high-quality, affordable, and effective products with a range of shampoos and conditioners that do what they promise. I especially love the Violet Toning Shampoo and Conditioner. My blondes are instantly brighter and their hair is left insanely soft and buttery,” said Celebrity Hairstylist and Kenra Professional Brand Ambassador David Lopez.
In addition to the new formulation, packaging was updated to suit an “on-the-go” lifestyle with travel-ready caps that allow for optimized packing, shipping and sustainability advantages, said Lopez.
“The ergonomic design is not only easier to hold, but its evolved aesthetic was modernized with more color, to add life to your shower shelf,” he added.
Scruples Haircare, part of the Beauty Elite Group, launched Color Art Fresh—the brand’s first ammonia- and PPD-free line.
“These ingredients are a stylist’s dream,” said Scruples CEO Bahira Shami. “From mango to lotus flower, we’ve incorporated these groundbreaking additions to our Color Art Fresh color line to create stunning and nourishing results every time that will leave the customers craving more. It’s a blend of beauty and health, redefining salon experiences.”
Scruples Creative Education Director and celebrity hairstylistWilliam Whatley says the new line enables clients who are allergic to ammonia-based hair coloring to return to the chair for color services.
“Another benefit for a stylist’s client is that it allows 100% gray coverage or vibrancy without any of the side effects of having an ammonia-based product,” said Whatley. “With this product, you’re able to do 100% gray coverage or a beautiful gloss over blondes or just a clear glaze to make the hair super shiny. It’s a very versatile, no ammonia-based color line.”
Color Art Fresh also allows for several different timing options, which can allow the stylist to use the dryer or open-air processing.
Stylists can speed up the processing time to help get a client out faster with the same results or allow it to open-air deposit with the same results, Whatley said.
At Cosmoprof Miami, Scruples unveiled 2024 summer hair color trends and its top corporate initiatives focusing on education for all levels of the hair styling industry. For more than four decades, Scruples’ products and its community have both been nurtured by experts, according to the brand.
“With this legacy in mind, my eye is on innovating new avenues for both seasoned and up-and-coming stylists,” Bahira stated. “We want to give them access to the full spectrum of tools necessary for success in 2024—and education lies at the heart of it all. We take immense pride in equipping artists with not only the technological prowess embedded within our products but also the expertise needed to wield them effectively.”
While in Miami, Scruples hosted an exclusive event, where Whatley detailed three color trends he expects to be big this summer—Hollywood Blonde, the Manhattan Brunette and Red Carpet Copper. He said of the upcoming season, “you’re going to see shine, you’re going to see vibrancy and you’re going to see the trend of hair color really start to be a fashion statement to a woman’s look once again.”
Hair glazes have become increasingly popular as they offer an easy way to refresh a hair look at home, according to market research firm Spate. This trend is highly competitive, with an average of 5.2K monthly searches and a YoY growth of 17.2%, according to Spate data. It presents an opportunity for educational content on both brand websites and social media platforms.
