Alberto Gines is not interested in the limelight that typically shines on Olympic champions.
The 18-year-old Spaniard became an overnight sensation back home when he unexpectedly became the first man to win an Olympic gold medal in sport climbing at Tokyo 2020.
However, the three years since have been something of a roller-coaster ride. Mental fatigue and injury restricted his participation in major events, save for two bronze medals at the 2022 European Championships.
Throughout all of these experiences, the Caceres native, now 23, has stayed true to himself.
“When I qualified for Tokyo, I was just a kid. I was 17-years-old. On the personal side, I guess I’m more mature now but have not changed much, I’m still the same shy kid,” Gines told Olympics.com at last month’s Olympic Qualifier Series (OQS) in Shanghai.
“I like that people see me as a normal guy, that’s what I am in the end. It doesn’t matter that I do sport climbing or go to the Olympics, in the end I like what everyone from age: watch movies, read, play video games.”
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Alberto Gines on working with 'the best coach in the world'
One constant in the athlete’s life over the past decade is David Macia.
At the age of 15, the Gines moved to Barcelona with his father in order to train under a coach they felt would take him to the top.
The move paid dividends and Macia, who is still Gines’ coach today, performs duties well beyond that of simply improving climbing technique. On any given day, Macia may also need to be a physical trainer, psychologist, advisor, or simply a friend.
“We’ve been together for 11 years, it’s my long-lasting relationship!,” said Gines.
“He is really important and we are a team. Even though I compete by myself, we are a team. We train together every day. I moved to Barcelona to train with him. So, he is an essential part of my life.
“He does everything. To me, he is not only the best coach in Spain, but in the world. Although there is a huge age difference, we have that confidence and chemistry between us. We keep building our relationship.
"Maybe some years we don’t have that much feeling and we don’t understand each other well, which of course affects my performance and my results. This year we are really connected.”
Macia, like Gines, is also one to stay humble. Perhaps this has been his greatest influence on the Olympic gold medallist.
“One of his mantras I really like is: “We are not as good when we win, nor as bad when we lose.” An example of this is, when I won at Tokyo 2020, I didn’t suddenly think that I was king of the world. I used it to get more confidence and self-esteem, but only to a certain point,” Gines said.
Honesty, both with himself and others, is one of the cornerstones of Gines' success.
So when the climber secured his Olympic quota to Tokyo 2020 in December 2019, and his grandmother made him a promise that they would both get a tattoo of the Olympic rings together, he simply couldn't back out.
"I was sure it was something she just said in that moment but was not going to do it at 76. So, two years later when I came back to Spain after winning gold I had a message from her: “I’m booking the appointment to get the tattoo.” I was very surprised that she actually remembered it and was going to do it. It was pretty cool!"
Olympic Qualifier masterclass and Paris 2024 ambitions
Some athletes are born for the big occasion, producing their best performances for when it matters most. Gines would appear to fit this mould.
Going into the OQS Shanghai with major question marks over his fitness following a recent foot injury, he rediscovered some of his best form to finish second overall.
One factor that may have also contributed to his rejuvenation is that sport climbing splits into two separate events for Paris 2024 - including a combined Boulder-Lead competition and a separate speed competition.
The Olympic champion is focussing on the former as the format's playing towards his strengths, Gines will not waver from his mentor's advice, and chooses to stay humble.
“I’ve got that pressure of trying to defend my title, although the format in sport climbing will be different. The higher level of competition is the biggest change, but I'm ready for that challenge.”
As National Olympic Committees have the exclusive authority for the representation of their respective teams at the Olympic Games, athletes' participation at Paris 2024 depends on their NOC selecting them to represent their delegation. Click here to view the qualification system for each sport.
You can watch the Olympic Qualifier Series (OQS) in Shanghai from 16 to 19 May live on Olympic Channel via Olympics.com and the official Olympics app for mobile devices.
